GT Scene

Bangers and MASH

A GT foodie tastes the A-list delights of the newest joint in town

Making my way down the red-carpeted spiral stairway, I am received by the Head Chef of the Copenhagen branch of MASH, and about three waitresses calmly providing guests with cocktails, champagne and delicious fois gras. Within minutes, I realise this is not a restaurant, but a chance to step in to the shoes of an A-lister.
A product of Copenhagen Concepts, MASH (Modern American Steak House) is lead by acute Scandinavian service. The very handsome Jakub, who plays a role it seems in everything, explains that with such a conversant team, everyone is on the same page and the experience is delivered in every aspect of the system. As I sip on a glass of Knickerbocker, Peter Trauboth the general manager then swiftly escorts me on a tour of the cellar and the spectacular private dining sector (with a menu specialised for groups). MASH does not just take steak incredibly seriously, but wine also. And by this, I mean there are literally sommeliers and connoisseurs crawling out of the woodwork, whom are all deeply informed of the 700 bottles the place has to present. Peter explains himself and the team as absolute ‘wine geeks’.
The restaurant takes the theme of an exquisite American diner with customers eating in their own booths, and combines it with a cool stand-alone cocktail bar, champagne stations, gold linings and what can only be described as a glass wardrobe of meat. The architecture stands alone as a supreme feature with gold lining, well, everything. So by this point I am very interested in experiencing the steak that MASH prides itself on.
Alas I am met with la pièce de résistance in the form of tiny chunks of absolute ecstasy on a cocktail stick. This specific steak, originating from Uruguay, is topped with a perfectly crisp chip and melted cheese, and it dissolves all too quickly in my eager mouth. As does the second, third and sixth piece. With so many slabs on the menu, of such broad ages and species of cattle, the menu triggers an impossible task. A waitress assists me, explaining that her favourite is Scandinavian steak, a more mature taste due to a longer hanging time (which describes the half-cow swinging in the admired meat wardrobe). She also explains how MASH works. Essentially you choose a steak and a variety of sides that come separately to enhance a sharing experience, and again I am advised the cream spinach is excellent.
As I start to relax, having taken in the fabulous drinks and superlative samples, I notice the vibrant ambience. The Mr and Mrs Jones DJ set, combined by Sophie Ellis-Bextor and her hubby Richard Jones, pumps out some feisty tracks that hit all levels from Madonna to Smash Mouth, and I cannot resist but to crack out Shazam now and again. I also recognise Javine, Penny Smith, Jamilia and the sexy Jay Camilleri (snogging his boyf) mingling with other guests and truly setting an exclusive tone to the evening. For a night of attentiveness and superiority, and an emphasis on owners not operators, MASH reinforces a unique experience for any one of its guests.

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Words: Jack Pearson

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