Mark King / Design & Art Direction

Taste the rainbow

Here at GT we’ve seen every conceivable product adorned with the rainbow flag – some with more style and taste than others. Thankfully, and just in time to celebrate World Pride, smart eaterie Chino Latino have created something with both style and a lot of taste – rainbow sushi.

Perfectly placed across the river from the Houses of Parliament, Chino Latino is creating some of the most respected Pan Asian cuisine in town. It really is worth a quick dash across the river if you want to escape the Pride crush but still feel like celebrating.

Their rainbow sushi maki roll has been conceived especially for World Pride with salmon, beetroot, red onion and avocado creating the taste and colour. It’s a great light lunch, especially if twinned with something equally as celebratory from their cocktail menu.

We would recommend treating the rainbow sushi as a starter, though, just for an excuse to stay for a longer dining experience.

Contemporary and glossy, the restaurant space caters for both private dining or excitingly social, depending on your crowd. If you feel like a discreet meal for two by candlelight then you’ll find it here. If you want a sociable table for a larger Pride celebration, ask for one in the raised area if you are really out to be seen.

Their wider menu is extensive but the staff know it backwards and are happy to help you navigate. Especially the rather charming manager Jean-Jacques, who obviously has a genuine love for what’s being created here.

A good overview is found in their taster menu. This is always a great way to eat and the sharing works for both a romantic dinner and the party table. They are savvy enough to have a vegetarian taster menu too, which is a nice touch.

If you feel like something singular, their Sirloin Steak on Hot Rocks sizzling in soy sauce is worth going for. It’s one of their signature dishes for good reason. We would also suggest the marinated Lamb cutlets which are so delicate they taste like they have been marinated with love for weeks.

And, what on paper should be quite dull – a side of mixed mushrooms – is presented with such artistry and unusual ingredients, it looks like one of Tim Burton’s set designs for Alice in Wonderland.

The presentation throughout – of every dish – is innovative and sometimes even quite astounding. But this isn’t smoke and mirrors to detract from the food. There is both a passion for quality and experimentation here that makes for an exceptional dining experience.

It goes without saying that if you have room left for a dessert you should indulge. Again, on paper, the Hot Yogurt Cake sounds like nothing much but it’s such a sublime and oddly textured dessert we needed to ask how it’s made. The method was really long and complex and another pointer to the detail that goes into preparation here. And – if you want a dessert that’s so-wrong-it’s-right – the dark chocolate brownie with a salted crust is the one to dare to try.

After the indulgence, a flute of sparkling sake makes for a cool, clean finish. The Rosé Junmai is the champagne of saki and an elegant way to end the meal – and to continue the celebration. GT

Chino Latino, 18 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TJ,
The rainbow sushi maki roll is on menu until July 19.

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