Travel Reports
Malmo
MALMO is a little gem of a city located on the southernmost tip of Sweden and linked to Copenhagen by the massive Oresund road and rail Bridge. It’s a dream destination for lovers of furniture design, has a fledgling gay scene and is steeped in enough history to lend its quaintly cobbled streets a lively ambience. For years it was part of the Danish Empire and the second most important city in Denmark, until a showdown by the Swedish king in 1658 led the Danes to, reluctantly, hand it back to Sweden. Ironically this led to Malmo’s long neglect until the profits of industrialisation from its, now abandoned, shipyard led to a dramatic economic recovery. Today the western harbour has been claimed for a complex of luxury, eco-friendly apartments with dramatic views of the Oresund. Off the usual tourist trail this site is well worth a wander if only for its extraordinarily eclectic collection of building. 21 architects were employed to build apartments in various different styles from around the world whilst residents are provided with the use of electric cars for shopping trips.
Back in town you will find cute medieval buildings clustered around a group of squares (which in winter time are turned into ice-skating rinks) and largely pedestrianised shopping streets - design afficionados will find more design shops per square inch than almost anywhere else in the world. If you happen to be there in August you will be treated to the Malmo Festival when huge trestle tables line the main square, Stortoget, piled with crayfish tails for you to gorge on. Another festival in Malmo is the Regnbags (Rainbow) Festival held in September. This is when gay Malmoites engage in nine days of parties, pub nights and a film festival at the gay centre (RFSL) at Monbijougatan, 15.
GETTING THERE
RYANAIR fly direct to Malmo Sturup Airport from Stansted and it has been one of their most popular routes since its inception. Journey time is just under two hours and tickets can be picked up for as little as £30 return (including tax). From Malmo Sturup the airport bus, which drops you off at Malmo Central Station, takes 45 minutes and costs approximately £5 (70kronor). A taxi will cost about £25 and there is also a bus link to Copenhagen (No. 737). www.ryanair.com
MEDIA AND INFORMATION
MALMO maps and tourist information can be picked up at the tourist office in the Central Station, (open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm and Sat 10am-1pm) where you can also buy a Malmo Card. I, 2 or 3 day cards are available and get you free entrance to many sights and museums and discounts on buses and trains to Copenhagen.
For information on the gay scene go to the RFSL centre at Monbijougatan 15 and pick up a copy of QX. Published by the RFSL organisation based in Stockholm it covers the whole of Sweden (and Oslo) though you may find the Swedish language hard to read! Malmo RFSL publish their own monthly guide (in Swedish) called Traffic and hold a club night every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday (see Clubs).
www.rfslmalmo.nu
www.malmo.se/turism
SIGHT SEEING
Malmo is a great city in which to wander but there are a few must-see sights. All within easy access of the city centre. First stop should be the Lilla Torg, a tiny square surrounded by beautiful old buildings, including the Hedmanska Garden, an old trading house in which the Form Design Centre is based. The Rooseum (Stora Nygatan) is worth a visit if you are into contemporary art, though most of Malmo’s museums are in the Malmohus, a fifteenth century castle located in the beautiful public Kungsparken gardens. If all this culture wears you down you can unwind at the Ribbersborgs Kallbadhuset (see Saunas).
BARS/CLUBS
Whilst most gay Malmoites now head across the bridge for a really raucous night there are a couple of specifically gay clubs. However, due to Sweden’s liberal attitude, same sex hand-holding or kissing is unlikely to inspire curiosity wherever you are.
Club Indigo – RFSL, Monbijougatan 15. Held every Friday and Saturday night on the second floor of the gay centre, Indigo has a community disco feel and gets busy after midnight. The first Saturday of each month is women-only and there are nights especially for the 40+. Officially you need to be a member but they will often waive this for tourists. Exceptions are busy party weekends including Easter (when they hold a five-day party), New Year’s Eve and during the Rainbow Festival. There is a quieter pub night on Wednesdays from 9pm-midnight.
Wonk – Adelgatan 2, between Lilla Torg and the railway station. A trendy alternative to Indigo this two-floor bar/club features an upstairs lounge bar and small dancefloor downstairs where you will find young Malmoites dancing to commercial house and pop. There is also a small card table if you fancy a flutter. Every Saturday 11pm-3am.
Etage – Stortorget 7. Not a gay club but this vast mall-like complex attracts a healthy gay quotient and is open until late. This is where the boys go when they grow tired of wonk.
Slagthuset – Jorgen Kocksgatan 7. Another straight club that has a number of gay visitors. Not as gay as it used to be but still worth checking out if you have the time.
Trains to Copenhagen’s larger gay scene leave throughout the day and night and take 35 minutes from city centre to city centre.
SAUNAS
Oddly, considering Sweden’s progressive culture, gay saunas are forbidden. However, they are integral part of Sedish society and if you do just one thing in Malmo make sure it’s a visit to the Ribersborgs Kallbadhuset. This beautiful cold water bath-house and sauna built in 1898 is located at the end of a pier along the Limhamns Vagen (about a ten minute walk from the train station). Take your own towel and, if you go during winter, take an invigorating dip in the icy waters of the Oresund. Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat and Sun 9am-4pm.
ACCOMMODATION
Master Johan – Master Johansgatan 13. For business travellers and those with money to burn this beautiful boutique style hotel is located juts off the Lilla Torg. Spacious rooma and romantic candle-lit bathrooms are complemented by a central atrium where coffee is served 24 hours a day.
Ibis – Citadellsvagen 4 A cheaper alternative and close to the train station. Ignore the functional fifties façade. Rooms are pleasantly comfortable and breakfast is included.
