Travel Reports
Brighton
Brighton has boutique hotels by the dozen, but only Claremont House has a five-diamond rating.
Brighton’s love affair with boutique hotels was given extra mileage when the 20-room Drakes opened last year to much media interest. It joined such stalwarts as the rock n’roll Pelirocco (with a room dedicated to the late Leigh Bowery), the beautiful Brightonwave, and Nineteen (complete with Madonna Room full of illuminated artwork). Some time soon they will be joined by a ‘digipop’ hotel designed by the king of NY cool, Karim Rashid.
However, none of these hotels has what the Hove B&B Claremont House has – a five diamond rating from the national tourist board, VisitBritain. These are awarded based on the range of facilities and levels of service offered, and the full (five) monty is only given to ‘exceptional’ establishments. Co-owned by Russell Brewerton and Michael Reed, the Claremont was particularly praised for its “stylish décor and excellent levels of hospitality and customer service.” It was also recommended for its generous sized rooms and equally generous breakfasts. I just had to go!
While I’ve never completely got to grips with the difference between a guesthouse, a ‘small hotel’ and a B&B, with only 12 bedrooms the Claremont is surely small enough to fit into the guesthouse category, except that it offers levels of service you’d expect from a five star ‘name’ hotel.
When Brewerton and Reed took over the Claremont in 2001 (after stints at The Park Lane, Royal Lancaster, Kempinski and Concorde) it was still an ungraded hotel catering largely to long-stay elderly customers. In former days it had been a prep school and a private residence, but behind the faded glory of the Victorian villa’s 100-year-plus façade, the couple saw the potential for a stylish, affordable seaside retreat. During the intervening years they’ve set about extensively redecorating, repainting and refurnishing, from cornice to cornerstone.
I arrived late one Friday night and grabbed a taxi to Hove, for while it’s not exactly in the hub of Brighton’s nightlife it’s only a five minute drive and twenty minute walk. And if a spot of R&R is what you are looking for then it completely hits the spot. The black and white chequered floor in reception gives the impression of a Manhattan Deco duplex and once directed to my room I found myself in a massive (24.5 square metre) deluxe room complete with inviting burgundy sofa, complimentary hospitality tray, cafetiere, colour TV and internet connection. The bathroom welcomed me with Gilchrist and Soames toiletries and a fluffy white bathrobe. But what really beckoned was the grand four poster bed with white cotton linen and a luxurious cherry red overthrow.
After one of the best night’s sleep I’ve had in ages I practically skipped down to breakfast peeking in the other rooms as my fellow guests emerged just as fresh-faced. Each is decorated in an individual style with art from local artists hanging on the walls (which you can buy if you want to take back an unusual souvenir).
The Claremont will face some stiff competition when Rashid’s digipop Myhotel opens, but then it’s already seen off all the other boutique hotels in Brighton and I’m sure it’ll still be polishing its diamonds for a good long time to come.
Brighton Essentials:
Preston Manor Ghost Tours:
Join Daisy, the all-seeing Victorian housemaid, for a tour of Brighton’s premier manor house. First built in 1250 it’s known as one of Brighton’s most hauted houses and there have been plenty of sightings of a mediaeval nun, a disembodied hand and a lady in grey. The resident White Lady is a more friendly ghost, apparently. Where? Preston Drove, Brighton, BN1 6SD. Tel: 01273 292 770.
Choccywoccydoodah: Slabs of marble chocolate cake, fantasy chocolate pets, mounds of bespoke chocolate wedding cake, chocolate gifts, one-off chocolate sculptured fantasies…Just about anything you want, as long as it’s made of chocolate. Where? 24, Duke Street, Brighton, BN1 1AG. Tel: 01273 329 462.
The Beach: No, it’s not fringed with palm trees and laced with powder white sand like the Seychelles, but it is nudist (or at least one part is). Made from shingle and pebbles (ouch!) it can get very busy in the summer. If the sun shines…Where? In front of the sea, silly.
The South Downs: Ten minutes out of Brighton the South Downs extend from Winchester to eastbourne and cover a staggering 1366 sq km of gentlly undulating hills and fields. A heaven for hikers and an official area of Outstanding Natural Beauty it’s also full of typically English villages and Farmers Markets. Lots of pubs too to stock up on liquid refreshments. June and September are the best times to visit when the weather is good and before the school holidays start.
Food And Drink Festival: A fiery food event featuring giant chillies, a Regency Banquet at the Royal Pavillion, the largest Farmers Market in the country and Bar Idols, a reality show worth watching; It must be the Brighton Food And Drink Festival, held annually in September. Watch out for restaurant tastings too. When? It kicks off on September 1st 2006 at Brighton Marina.Where? All across Brighton and Hove.
Kemp Town If you are lucky enough to know someone who lives there get them to invite you round to dinner. If not go there anyway and poke your nose around their luxuriously furnished homes. This area of Regency buildings has been spruced up with a little – okay a lot – of cash. It’s very popular with gay men and lesbians (at least the rich ones) and those with a weak sense of humour have nicknamed it Camp Town. Ha, ha, ha! Famous former residents include Vita Sackville West, William IV, Lewis Carroll and Barbra Streisand (well, they filmed one of her movies here)! Where? The area around Sussex Square, Arundel Terrace, Chichester Terrace and Lewes Crescent.
Gay Pride It’s often the biggest and certainly the best Pride in the UK, if not the world. If they have Prides anywhere elsewhere in the universe, well it’s probably better than those too. Even people who don’t like Pride events rave about it, When?Saturday 29th July to August 6th 2006. Where? The main event takes place in Preston Park on August 5th but there are Pride events throughout the city in the preceding week.
Royal Pavillion Yes, it’s a big tourist cliché, but the John Nash designed building (built for George IV when he was Prince Regent) really is worth a visit. The extraordinarily exotic design continues within with opulent banqueting halls, royal bedrooms and a magnificent music room all open to the public. You can also now book your Civil Partnership ceremony here. Happy days. Where? 4/5 Pavillion Buildings, Brighton BN1 1EE. Tel: 01273 290 900.
Andrew Copestake