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Cardiff - St David's Spa

Even the most casual observer of Britain’s 21st Century regeneration can’t have failed to notice that one city seems to be progressing at a faster rate than others. Manchester may have the edge on time, Leeds a Harvey Nicks and Birmingham the fabulous Mailbox (although the Midlands town still has a long way to go), but if you want a really forward-looking city then Cardiff is your future eye.

And while residents heave a sigh of frustration at the endless roadworks, one-way systems and dead ends that urban regeneration fosters, they have already reaped the benefits with the Millenium Stadium and the Wales Millenium Centre (home to the Welsh National Opera, Hijinx Theatre, Diversions Dance Company of Wales and a host of other arts companies), while part of the St David’s 2 redevelopment project (at a cost of £535m) will give the city a new state-of-the-art civic library and a 260,000 square foot John Lewis department store in a 750,000 square foot shopping complex. But enough of numbers; recently plans were announced for a new bridge to cross Cardiff Bay, built on the concept of origami. Now that’s something to look forward to…

It’s the bay that is the heart and soul of a city barely one hundred years old. It’s what put Cardiff on the map in the first place. Back in the 19th century the docklands (then known as Tiger Bay) was an infamous port of call for salty sea dogs and criminals alike. Immigrants came seeking their fortunes - especially from Ireland, Yemen and Somalia - and gambling dens and prostitution flourished. Those with long memories may remember the area immortalised in the 1959 kitchen sink murder melodrama, Tiger Bay (by a twelve-year old Hayley Mills) as a place of gritty industrial frustrations and impenetrablle fraternities. But all that changed in the late 1960s when shops and pubs and row upon row of terraced houses were pulled down to make way for the city’s new waterfront development,

Dominating the skyline of Cardiff Bay today are the curvaceous lines of the St David’s Hotel and Spa, a 132-room, purpose-built structure that Conde Nast Travel Magazine called ‘the best thing that’s ever happened to Cardiff.’ It opened to much praise in January 1999 and was recently listed in Conde Nast as one of the best in the world for ambience and design. With views across the bay to the Norwegian Church where Roald Dahl was baptised, it’s a dramatic building from whatever angle you approach - though chances are you’ll approach from the road, having negotiated the latest roadworks.

Don’t be surprised if they’ve laid out the red carpet on your arrival. As the premiere five star hotel in Wales it is used to holding celebrity parties and high profile business functions. They have already booked their first gay wedding reception and have the only hotel Krug champagne bar outside London, the Krug at Tides Bar and Grill, a smoky rendez-vous of voluptuous chocolate brown sofas and low level lighting. Drinks are served in disconcertingly skewed glasses (watch out when you have had a few too many tipples) with sharing platters available throughout the evening and chilled out DJ music on Friday and Saturday nights from 10.30pm.

But what really makes a stay at St David’s complete is the resident spa which launched its Marine Spa concept last June offering Thalassotherapy treatments and hydrotherapy through E’Spa and Thalgo products. Although open to none residents and residents alike there is something decidedly decadent about slipping on your robe and wandering through the minimalist corridors of the hotel before taking refuge in the marine hydrotherapy spa pool with its underwater jets and bracing swan neck showers.

Treatments range from the two and three quarter hour St David’s Ritual (incorporating hot stone massage, mud envelopment and facial) to a Holistic Stress Release through exfoliating body brushing. I opted for the Marine Hydrotherapy Bath, a blissful underwater massage with essential oils that is just the right duration at 30 minutes. Any longer and I might have turned to seaweed, but my charming therapist, who practised in health concious Australia before she floated in to St David’s, guided me back to the relaxation room and plied me with herbal teas and fresh juice.

St David’s take the concept of mind and body balance very seriously and their signature residential spa experiences are probably the best present you will ever buy yourself, whether you want to detox, lose weight or simply indulge. For the former two there is an on site nutritionist who oversees the menu in the spa restaurant and café, Waves. For the latter – like me – it’s back to Tides Bar and Grill for a wonky glass of Gin and Tonic.

Essentials:

Spa Residential Packages are available from £200 per person (including all meals, use of spa facilities and guest bedroom with balcony and bay view) based on two people sharing. For further details log on to www.thestdavidshotel.com or call 02920 454045.