Travel

Travel Reports

Sintra

If God were into theme parks he’d probably want one just like Sintra. Just a half hour drive northwest from central Lisbon, Portugal’s most historic city was called “the most pleasing in Europe” by Lord Byron. Now, we all know Byron liked to roam, but that’s high praise indeed from the wordy one. Byron, of course, fell foul of one-time Poet Laureate and former communist (before communism was really invented) Robert Southey, but on Sintra they agreed; “The most bless spot on the whole inhabitable globe,” waxed Southey. “A glorious Eden,” echoed Byron. And to this library of great names you might add Hans Christian Anderson (he owned a cottage on the steep climb up to the Castelo dos Mouros) and, erm Marilyn Manson. Manson has decided to film one part of his Lewis Carroll PHANTASMAGORIA project in the city, describing it as a “very powerfully magical, strange place.” Perhaps it’s the evidence of astral cults in the area once known as the Hills of the Moon that has caught his imagination.

But, why would God be interested? Well, for one thing, amongst the archaeological ruins and countless monuments of the Serra de Sintra, lie a quartet of miraculous churches, a cave-like monastery, a baroque chapel and, the piece de resistance, the Chapel of the romantic Quinta da Regaleira, an early twentieth century Palace built by a man who must have had dreams that would have fascinated Freud. Along with his friend, the set designer Luigi Manini, Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteira fused Gothic, Renaissance, Rococo and Manueline aesthetics to create a scared Palace that is also a testament to conspicuous consumption. It includes a moss-covered spiral staircase in the garden that descends into the bowels of the earth; perhaps to evade the bailiffs should they ever come knocking.

But away from the sprawl and heat of Lisbon, Sintra’s attractions are obvious. The most westerly point in mainland Europe it is notably cooler than the capital. Though in terms of sheer visitor numbers, Sintra is obviously no secret. The Portuguese Royal Family made it their summer retreat by builing pleasure palaces and gardens with the funds of the growing Portuguese Empire. They were only following in the footsteps of the Moors who reigned here until the twelfth century. It was the Moors who built a defensive castle (Castelo dos Mouros) from where you can gaze out at the mystical coastline of the Estoril. Natural spring water found in the area was thought to have glorious properties.

But for some it wasn’t the water that attracted. Three miles up the road from central Sintra lies the former residence of one William Beckford, aka The Fool Of Fonthill. Once the richest man in England, Beckford was forced to flea his motherland when the climate became too intolerant of people of ‘his kind.’ According to gossip he had a scurrilous affair with the 3rd Viscount of Devon and assembled a harem of beautiful boys. He wrote a purple, Oriental-Gothic novel about a tower of 11, 000 stairs that penetrated the secrets of heaven, but in Sintra he retreated to the more modest, though no less lovely, Montserrate Gardens. Try finding that story in the GCSE History curriculum!

Today, if you want to stay in luxury in the Sintra hills, you couldn’t choose a better place than the Penha Longa Hotel and Golf Resort. This beautiful 545-acre estate was once a monastery and then a Royal Palace for retreating Royals. Under the management of the Ritz-Carlton Company it has been given a US$25 million restoration and combines elegant, classic interiors with the beautiful surroundings of a stunning National Park of lush gardens, rolling hills and crystal-clear lakes.

There are actually two golf courses on the estate – the challenging 18-hole Atlantic, which has hosted many international golfing tournaments, and the easier nine-hole, Monastery course. You can arrange golf lessons from the hotel and, if you prefer to leave your equipment as home, it can be hired for the day for a modest fee.

A major new addition to the Penha Longa complex is the brand-new Six Senses health spa. This 1500 square metre temple to the vain was conceived, built and operated by the world’s leading spa company. The five-star treatments on offer are available in a plush environment and combine local Portuguese flavours with original Asian techniques. There are wet and dry treatment rooms, Thai salai massage rooms and a private suite for exclusive pampering. A signature spa package is the Golfer’s Recovery treatment featuring intensive massage of stress points and a lavendar and tea tree facial. In the breeze of the newly opened gardens there's a Jacuzzi, plunge pool, waterfall, bathing pool, two gazebos for meditation and a platform for T'ai Chi and yoga.

Having detoxed, retoxed and re-energised, eating at Penha Longa might feel like a sinful pleasure, but as Beckford should have said, there’s nothing wrong with sin. Two great restaurants, rated amongst Portugal's best, are located within the grounds of the hotel. The assMassa derives its name from the Portuguese word meaning ‘the place where you come to bake’, and this has modern variations of traditional Portuguese dishes. As you'd expect, fish dishes are superb. The other restaurant, the Japanese Midori, serves authentic modern Japanese dishes. But then it should do. All the cooking staff were trained to the highest standard in Tokyo!

I have no idea what Byron thought of Japanese cuisine, but I’m sure he would have loved the Penha Longa had it been open (he actually stayed at the Lawrence in the centre of the city) as would Beckford. However, what God would have made of all this indulgence, Lord only knows.

Essentials:

GTT travelled to Sintra via Lisbon courtesy of TAP Air Portugal. TAP flies to Lisbon from Gatwick and Heathrow daily. www.flytap.com

Getting from central Lisbon by train is easy and takes in the rugged coastline to Cascais. Trains leave from Rossio station every 20 minutes, cost about £1.80 and take approximately 45 minutes. Alternatively, a taxi will costs about €25, though be warned the road out of Lisbon is notoriously traffic-clogged.

Penha Longa, Estrada da Lagoa Azul, Linho, 2714-511 Sintra. For further information and reservations log on to www.penhalonga.com or call (351) 219 249 011.