Travel Reports
Bratislava
"If you want a fairy tale, your town is a fairy tale itself!" according to Hans Christian Anderson.
His words still resonate, and although Communism has scarred parts of Bratislava, with its grim housing estates, the city’s beautiful baroque old town has been lovingly restored leaving the impression of a laid-back city with a buzzing café culture and most definitely a growing sense of style. This makes for a delightful and manageable weekend break, providing an insight into central European culture that rivals its grander Danube neighbours.
It is a two hour and twenty minute flight from Stansted Airport and once you’re there, it is best to take a taxi (around 20 minutes to the city centre).
I had every intention of treating myself to a weekend of pampering and checked in to the stylish Hotel Marrol, one of the most luxurious hotels in Slovakia. A recent renovation has restored the Art Deco fixtures to their original glory, yet the Marrol exudes a modern feel with sumptuous Havana-styled leather sofas and gorgeous tapestries with elegant furnishings in undeniable retro fashion. All rooms offer air conditioning, the latest technical equipment, unlimited high-speed DSL internet access and complimentary mini bar, and all are furnished in a retro style of the highest standards. There is no question this hotel oozes glamour and chic. Situated in the heart of the historic centre of Bratislava, it is only a five-minute walk to the old town and a scant few minutes walk from the Danube quay. In fact it’s a perfect location from which to explore the city by foot and this is a city that favours people with much of the old city closed to traffic.
Armed with my map, dripping with excitement and with temperatures in the high twenties, my first port of call was Bratislava castle. The locals fondly refer to this as an upside down table, with its four turrets resembling table legs stuck in the air. It dates back to the 9th Century and has been rebuilt many times, but gained its current shape during the 18th century under the reign of the Hasburg Empress Maria Theresia, who unlike past emperors and Kings, spent a lot of time there. She imbued it with the magnificence and grandeur it possesses today. On the foot of the castle hill, you will see what is considered to be one of the most beautiful rococo buildings in Central Europe, the House of the Good Shepherd. Built in 1765 the House is located on the corner of Beblaveho Ulica and Zidowvska Ulica. Climb up the hill and you come to Sigismund’s Gate, the only city gate left intact and the best preserved gothic part of the castle, dating from the first half of the 15th century. In the castle itself you will find the Armoury, Archaeology and History museums where you can sample the city’s rich and colourful history. The most impressive aspect of the castle are the spectacular views of the old city’s pavement cafes, its beautiful rococo and baroque town houses and the red-tile rooftops stretching to the hills on the outskirts. On a clear day, you can see Austria and Hungary in the near distance. In summer, the castle’s main courtyard stages operatic and music concerts as well as Shakespearean plays in a setting that will make you tingle.
Just across the Novy Most, from the foot of the castle, lies the impressive triply-nave gothic St Martin’s Cathedral. There is a 300 kg Hungarian Royal Crown resting on a golden pillow and it is placed on the top of the high tower, testament to St Martin’s being the coronation cathedral of Hungarian Kings and Queens for almost three hundred years. Sadly, it was closed for maintenance and repair on my visit but I was told by the locals that it is definitely worth the effort as it accommodates several masterpieces of the Austrian sculptor, G. R. Donner. They include sculptures of St Martin, marble statues of mourning figures and his famous design of the main altar of the baroque chapel of St. John the Mendicant, all in Central European baroque style.
Just down Prepostska lane from the cathedral is Venturska, a wonderful street lined with baroque townhouses, all individually unique with intricate ornate designs and (curiously) a feeling that each has a story to tell. The magnificent St Michael’s Gate is one baroque building worth looking out for. Situated at the bottom of the street, this 14th century tower used to be part of the old city walls and is 50 metres high. Underneath is the zero kilometre dial where it shows the direction and distance from Bratislava to 29 worldwide cities . The street is also dotted with trendy restaurants, cafés and bars where you’ll find the city’s hip and beautiful people socialising in its fantastic café culture with great style. Eyeing up all the attractive restaurants on this street and feeling ravenous, Ludwig Restaurant was my natural choice. One of the city’s upmarket restaurants, its interior is simple, yet elegant, serving modern French cuisine with a great selection of wine. The service was impeccable and, along with a glass of Slovakia’s finest Rielsing, I happily indulged myself with some marinated salmon in basil whipped cream, pesto and pine nuts as a starter, followed by chicken breast stuffed with spinach and blue cheese, a delicious herb sauce, sugar carrots and potatoes boiled to perfection. With no room for dessert, the whole experience proved immensely satisfying and, with a price tag of just 20 Euros, decidely affordable.
At the top of Venturska is Hviezdoslavovo Namestie, a beautiful piazza lined with trees, numerous fountains and pavement cafes. Its biggest attracting is the impressive 19th century Slovak National Theatre. Built by the famous Viennese architects, Feller & Helmer, this neo-renaissance building is still used for its original purpose, housing local and international operas and ballets. There is a beautiful globe chandelier inside, with 2532 lights bulbs which can create more than a hundred different lighting effects. At the front of the building is Ganymede fountain, which depicts Zeus as an eagle abducting the boy Ganymede to Mount Olympus.
For coffee lovers, there is the Steam & Coffee restaurant on the piazza, part of the grand Carlton Hotel. It serves a selection of coffees from all over the world as well as food and a great selection of Czech beers. You should try the delicious pineapple ice cream, served in a real pineapple with fresh chunks of pineapple, truly refreshing on a hot summers day.
There are many baroque palaces dotted around the city but not all of them are open to the public. The Archbishop’s Palace is one of the grandest in the city. It’s origins date back to the 13th century but it was pulled down in the mid 16th century by the Cardinal at the time, J Batthyani. He felt it was more appropriate that his palace should be larger and more luxurious and had it re-built in the style of French Classicism. It is now the Mayor’s residence and its ceremonial rooms house the European Painting of Past Centuries exhibition and the famous Bratislava tapestries. The Chapel of St Ladislav inside the palace is definitely worth visiting. Its oval plan interior houses precious works of art, including the beautiful vault painting of a scene of St Ladislav, King of Hungary. There are many other palaces not far from here, like the Palffy Palace, Mirbach’s Palace and the Garassalkovich Palace, all offering magnificent beauty and demanding o be seen.
Having spent most of the day soaking up the city’s history, I headed back to the hotel for my much anticipated booking in the Jasmine spa for a spot of R&R. The Jasmine has a whirlpool with hydro-massage jets, shower facilities, sauna and a tanning studio. The minimum permitted stay is 2 hours, but it can accommodate up to six people, so why not have a party? You will need to make a reservation at reception and it costs 2000 Slovak Krona (about £35) but it’s well worth it.
Feeling incredibly relaxed and ready for more culinary delights, I reserved a table at the ultra cool restaurant, Mezzo Mezzo. One glance from the street tells you this is one of the most elegant in the city. With an international menu that rivals any top class restaurants in New York or London, it serves a spectacular array of dishes from cream soups, to delicate fish and hearty steaks. It’s hard to find fault with this amazing venue; the service, ambience and even the lavatories in are perfection.
Bratislava’s night life kicks in around midnight, and the place to be seen is the small but friendly Little Barbaros on Vysoká 20. It’s a great way to have a few drinks before heading off to the country’s official gay club, Apollon on Panenska 24. Tucked in a vaulted cellar, this has a chill out area, bar and good size dance floor. The atmosphere is friendly, but I got the impression that everyone knew each other. The owner has big plans to add a VIP room and an extra chill out area.
Most locals head to Big Barbaros after. The sister bar of Little Barbaros on Bajkalska 30, this dance club has a superb atmosphere with a very mixed crowd who know how to party to the early hours of the morning. Finding myself slightly intoxicated I stumbled out come closing time and asked the people at reception to call me a taxi as flagging taxis on the street can be difficult.
With a wonderful champagne breakfast in the hotel restaurant to ease the hang over and a few hours left before my flight, I headed to the city’s biggest shopping mall, Polus City Centre. This vast mall is a shoppers paradise in a city not blessed with shopping opportunities, but be warned, prices are so tempting you could easily find yourself spending more here than expected!
With a decided lack of tourist tack Bratislava remains unspoilt from the influx of Euro-weekenders. But go there now. It can’t stay a secret for long.
Thomson Holidays organise short city breaks to Bratislava. www.thomson.co.uk
For things to do and places to see log on to
www.enjoyslovakia.com
Hotel Marrol's
Tobrucka ul. 4
811 02 Bratislava 1
www.hotelmarrols.sk
Ludwig Restaurant
Venturska 7
811 01 Bratislava
www.ludwig.sk
Mezzo Mezzo
Rybarska brana 9
Bratislava
www.mezzo.sk
Little Barbaros & Big Barbaros
www.Barbaros.sk
Apollon Gay Club
Panenska 24
Bratislava
www.apollon-gay-club.sk
Neil Lazaroo
